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Finding jeans that genuinely fit is one of the most common frustrations in fashion. A size 28 in one brand gaps at the waist; the same number in another won't pull past your thighs. The reason is rarely the number — it's the cut. Once you understand four key measurements — rise, thigh width, back rise, and stretch level — choosing the right pair becomes a lot more straightforward.
This guide is written for real bodies and real measurements. No vague "slim" or "relaxed" marketing labels — just practical advice to help you shop smarter.
Step 1: Choose Your Rise
Rise is the distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. It's the single biggest factor in how jeans sit on your body and how comfortable they are across your hips and stomach.
How to measure your rise
Sit on a hard chair and measure from the chair seat straight up to your natural waist (where you'd naturally fold forward). This gives you your body rise. Compare this to the garment's listed rise measurement when available.
- Low rise (under 24 cm / ~9.5 in): Sits well below the navel. Works best on narrower hips. Can feel restrictive when seated.
- Mid rise (24–27 cm / ~9.5–10.5 in): The most universally flattering range. Sits at or just below the navel. Comfortable seated and standing.
- High rise (27 cm+ / ~10.5 in+): Sits at or above the navel. Excellent for longer torsos, comfort while seated, and smoothing the hip-to-waist ratio.
Good starting points by fit: The Dr Denim Hill Jean in Pebble Mid Stone and Hill Jean in Canyon Light Vintage are both mid-to-high rise cuts designed for everyday comfort. If you prefer a relaxed high-rise silhouette, the Donna in White sits at the natural waist with a roomy thigh.
Step 2: Measure Your Thigh Width
Thigh width is probably the most overlooked measurement when buying jeans — and the most common reason a pair fits the waist but won't go up. Brands rarely advertise it prominently, but it's easy to check at home.
How to measure your thigh
Wrap a soft tape measure around the fullest part of your thigh — usually about 5–8 cm below your crotch. Keep the tape snug but not tight. Write this number down in centimetres.
When reviewing a garment's size chart, look for the thigh circumference or thigh width listing. If only thigh width (half-circumference) is given, double it. You want at least 2–4 cm of ease over your actual thigh measurement for a comfortable non-stretch fit, or 1–2 cm if the fabric has significant stretch (see Step 4).
Thigh fit by silhouette
- Skinny / slim fit: Minimal ease — thigh measurement should be close to or equal to your actual thigh. Stretch is usually built in. Try the Nobody Denim Siren Skinny Ankle in PowerBlk or Cult Skinny Ankle in PowerBlk — both use compression-stretch fabric that accommodates a wider thigh range.
- Straight / slim straight: 2–4 cm ease. The Neuw Ray Straight in Mad World sits in this zone — structured enough to hold shape, with room through the thigh.
- Relaxed / baggy: 6 cm+ ease. The Dr Denim Omar Baggy Jean in Canyon Light Worn, Omar in Canyon Sky Retro, and Omar in Worn Black are all cut with substantial thigh room — a strong choice if your thighs are the limiting factor in standard fits.
Tip: If you're between sizes and your thigh is the issue, size up and use a belt rather than compromising comfort through the leg.
Step 3: Understand Back Rise
Back rise is the distance from the crotch seam to the back waistband. It's longer than the front rise on most jeans, and it determines how much coverage you get behind — whether the waistband sits flush against your lower back or gaps when you sit or bend.
How to measure back rise
Lay the jeans flat on a table. From the centre of the crotch seam, measure straight up along the back panel to the top of the waistband. This is the back rise measurement.
Alternatively, measure your own body: sit straight on a hard surface and measure from the seat of the chair to your natural waist — then add 2–3 cm for comfort.
What back rise tells you
- Short back rise (under 33 cm): Sits lower. Can expose the lower back when seated. More common in low-rise cuts.
- Standard back rise (33–37 cm): The most common range. Works for most body proportions.
- Long back rise (38 cm+): Provides full coverage. Important if you have a longer torso, a higher seat, or simply want coverage when bending forward.
Back rise is particularly important if you find that jeans consistently gap at the back waistband — this is almost always a back rise issue rather than a sizing one. A longer back rise or a higher-rise cut will usually solve it.
The Dash in Stream Mid Retro and Dash in Light Blue Ridge Stone are mid-rise straight-leg styles with a standard-to-long back rise — a reliable choice if coverage has been an issue with other brands.
Step 4: Interpret Stretch Level
Not all stretch is equal. Denim stretch is determined by the percentage of elastane (sometimes listed as Lycra or spandex) blended into the fabric, as well as the weave structure. Here's a plain-English breakdown:
- 0% elastane (rigid denim): No stretch. Will mould to your body over time but requires careful sizing. Measure all key points and size accordingly. True to label measurements — what you see is what you get.
- 1–2% elastane: Minimal stretch — often called "comfort stretch." Adds a small amount of give without changing the structure of the fabric. Still measure carefully.
- 2–4% elastane: Moderate stretch. Most skinny and slim fits fall here. Allows for 1–2 cm deviation from stated measurements.
- 4%+ elastane / power stretch: Significant stretch and recovery. Common in athletic-profile skinny jeans. Thigh width can be 2–4 cm smaller than your actual measurement and still fit comfortably.
The Dr Denim Rush Jean in Worn Black and Rush in Black use a comfort-stretch fabric — slim through the leg with a small amount of give that makes them easier to size than rigid denim, without sacrificing shape.
Important: Stretch does not meaningfully increase waist circumference. If a jean is tight at the waist, stretch will not fix it — size up.
Step 5: A Simple Sizing Workflow
Before you add anything to your cart, take three minutes to do the following:
- Measure your waist at the point where you want the jeans to sit (natural waist, hip, or in between).
- Measure your thigh at the fullest point.
- Sit and measure your body rise (chair seat to natural waist).
- Check the brand's size chart for all three measurements — not just waist.
- If thigh or rise measurements aren't listed, consider choosing a fit with more ease (relaxed or baggy) or contact us — we're happy to pull garment measurements for you.
- Factor in stretch: if the fabric has 2%+ elastane, you can be at the top of the measurement range and still fit comfortably.
- When in doubt between two sizes: if your thigh is the tight point, size up. If your waist is the tight point and thigh fits, use a belt or try a style with a more generous back rise.
Still Not Sure?
Fit is personal, and no guide can account for every body shape. If you've measured and you're still uncertain, reach out before you order — it's much easier to find the right pair upfront than to manage a return. You can also browse by silhouette: our Arch in Tar Ash Grey offers a tapered leg from a mid rise — a good middle ground between straight and slim if neither extreme is working for you.
Good denim should feel like a second skin from the first wear, not something you have to break in or tolerate. Use the measurements, trust the numbers, and you'll get there.